Sorry if this turns out long. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read. Well, basically, red hair is the absolute best color on me, since I have very white skin and it just compliments me perfectly. I've only had it dyed truly red one time so far, at a salon over the summer (the color was similar to Kirsten Dunst's color in Spiderman), and this was after it was bleached blonde and I decided I hated the blonde, so that's why I got the red. Well, that red faded to a coppery color I'm not crazy about (by the way, it was a "semi permanent" red color added to my bleached hair), but it stuck around like a permanent, slowly fading after a couple of months. It faded quite a bit, but my hair hasn't gone back to anywhere close to the very bleach blonde color I started off with, thank goodness! The stylist said it faded so much because my hair was pourous from the bleach, that's probably right, and that I shouldn't use a "permanent" color anymore because it might damage the previously bleached hair. My hair is actually in good condition, eventhough it was practically a triple process bleach job. My roots are now well over an inch and I'd like to dye the faded red part and the roots a darker red color again. My natural color of my roots is a light to med. ashy brown/dark blonde with a touch of red, somewhere around a level 7 with a touch of warmth, according to the stylist, so basically *kinda* auborn, but more of a light ashy brown. But the part that was previously bleached blonde then dyed red is a coppery color, lighter than the roots (but not extremely lighter). I don't really need any help choosing a color (at least I don't think so, unless you have some warnings about that), but I have these questions: If I use a semi-permanent hair color (to prevent further damage), how exactly do I go about doing it? I guess I should leave the color in longer in the part that was bleached and then apply to the roots last, is that right or is it vice versa? I know a semi will stick around longer on the part that has been bleached compared to my roots, so I will probably have to touch up the roots more often then the ends, is that correct? Or will I need two totally separate colors? And as far as hair coloring goes, what store brand would you recommend? (Sorry that I can't go to the salon, I have to do it myself). Also, do you know if there is a brand of red that fades slower than other brands? Lastly, does Sally's Beauty Supply have experienced people that can help me? hehe... Any other tips are welcome! Sorry this was lengthy! Thanks for reading, though, and thanks for ANY advice you can give.
It always amazes me that my (so-called) experienced co-horts in this industry forget about a little thing called "color filler". It is so simple to use the filler to replace pigment in the hair prior to adding a permanent color. Permanent color wil not damage your hair further - unless it is left on WAY too long, or the hair is already in horrible condition; but then, a series of re-conditioning treatments could be done prior to the application of color.
Since you need to do this yourself, I will give you a few hints. You can replace some of the pigment in the lighter portions of your hair by first applying the color mixture of your choice mixed with 10 volume peroxide (not 20 volume as is the norm). Using the 10 volume peroxide will allow ONLY a deposit of color vs. the lift/deposit action of 20 volume. Mix the color in equal proportions with 10 volume peroxide and apply to ONLY the ends of the hair. When this portion has reached the desired level of color (usually about 30 minutes), wash it out of the hair. While still damp, apply conditioner to the ends you just colored and leave it in. Mix your color with 20 volume peroxide and apply only to the re-growth (roots) of the hair and leave on until it comes close to (or matches) the previously applied section (the ends). Wash your hiar and apply your conditioner, leaving it in your hair for at least 5mminutes, then rinse well.
You should come out with hair that is all one color, or within a better 'match' than what you now have.
No, the people at Sally's are not licensed hairdressers - they don't know how to tell you to "fix" your hair color problem. Just choose a color that is within the color range you desire - I usually suggest that one chooses a color at least one shade lighter than the desired end result as hair tends to 'grab' color and it might be too dark at first.
To 're-fresh' faded color, mix 1oz of color with 1oz of 10 volume peroxide and 1oz of conditioner (any conditioner). Apply to freshly washed and towel dried hair, leave in for 10 minutes, then wash out. YOu can do this every 2 weeks if needed until the color stops fading so fast.
Marti,
OK, now let's see here.. you mentioned "peroxide" so I'm already a little bit afraid to even attempt that (actually, a LOT afraid), haha. My hair was VERY bleached, 3, maybe 4 times. Is my hair not "open" enough already to be filled up with more color? Or are you saying that I need to put a color filler in first as well? The semi permanent color that was added to my bleached hair, eventhough it faded a lot to a much different color, it has basically "settled" at the color it is now and it has stuck around for a few months, and I don't think it's going anywhere. So would it not work to keep adding on to the color, because the stylist mentioned that I should use semi permanents for now on to gradually keep "building up" color. Does that not work? I know the roots are a different story, and you mentioned using 20 volume there, so basically you're talking along the lines of "permanent color" here, correct? Well, see, I basically wanted to not use permanent color at all, not even on my roots, I'm afraid of having damaged hair over time, unless you think it has very minimal damage? I probably have some more questions, but I'll see what you have to say so far. Thanks for helping out.
p.s. . I forgot to say, it's the ammonia I'm also worried about.
Marti,
OK, now let's see here.. you mentioned "peroxide" so I'm already a little bit afraid to even attempt that (actually, a LOT afraid), haha. My hair was VERY bleached, 3, maybe 4 times. Is my hair not "open" enough already to be filled up with more color? Or are you saying that I need to put a color filler in first as well? The semi permanent color that was added to my bleached hair, eventhough it faded a lot to a much different color, it has basically "settled" at the color it is now and it has stuck around for a few months, and I don't think it's going anywhere. So would it not work to keep adding on to the color, because the stylist mentioned that I should use semi permanents for now on to gradually keep "building up" color. Does that not work? I know the roots are a different story, and you mentioned using 20 volume there, so basically you're talking along the lines of "permanent color" here, correct? Well, see, I basically wanted to not use permanent color at all, not even on my roots, I'm afraid of having damaged hair over time, unless you think it has very minimal damage? I probably have some more questions, but I'll see what you have to say so far. Thanks for helping out.
p.s. . I forgot to say, it's the ammonia I'm also worried about.
Permanent colr and temporary color BOTH use peroxide - otherwise the color wouldn't work. Temporary color uses a 5 volume peroxide to open up the hair shaft to accept the color. Using a temporary color on the re-growth will not allow the color to be lightened to blend with the ends - it will only add a bit of color if the color is darker - not lighter.
Some color manufacturers call the 'peroxide' and oxidizer, but it still does the same thing. ANY color can be damaging to your hair if it is left on too long or is bleached to the white stage. Using a permanent volor is no more damaging to your hair than a temporary color if it is applied correctly. After all, color is color - whether temporary or permanent. If the temporary color is still in your hair, how can it be truly temporary? The only truly 'temporary' color is the old Fanciful weekly color rinse that washed completely from the hair with shampoo, and had to be re-applied on a 'weekly' basis or after every shampoo.
Coloring your hair in the manner I instructed will not damage your hair. You will not be 'lightening' then coloring if you use the 10 volume peroxide - you will only be DEPOSITING color, which is what you are after. You can always add a little conditioner to the mix to cut the peroxide level even further. One-half ounce of conditioner will cut the peroxide level in half - to a 5. Any more than that and it will not open the hair shaft and allow the color to get to the cortex.
FYI: I have held my cosmetology license since 1967 and my Instructors license since 1992 - I am just more nationally known for my nail expertise than my hair expertise - the information I gave you is dead-on and if you follow it to a T, you will be fine.
Hello again ... Alrighty, I do understand most of what you've said so far. But, if for some reason, I chicken out and decide not to do it that way the first time, would it be OK to just buy 2 or 3 boxes of a semi-permanent color, and try it that way first? Since this is my first time doing it on my own, and I am just really scared. And maybe with the semi I would just leave the same color on the roots longer, or leave it on the ends longer? Or just buy a whole different color for the roots? Since I am basically going to be coloring it all darker, won't a semi-permanent darken my roots just as well?....
OR, if that would wash out too easily on the roots, what if I just buy a box of permanent color for my roots and a box or two of semi-perm for my ends?
OR (sorry this is long!)... is that 2nd option ^ basically what you're already saying to do, but instead I would just be mixing it all myself, with a couple of variations?
I think it's the "mixing it all myself" part that is overwhelming to me. I might still decide to do it that way, since you obiviously sound very experienced and confident that it will work. But I just wanted to put these last ideas out there also and see what you thought first, before I do it the way you said. Because I'm just so scared of ruining the part that's been so bleached before. And if I do it the way you suggested, how do I know what color to choose? Does the Wella color line have a special chart that shows what before and after color to go by?....
I'm so sorry I have so many concerns, I hope I have not completely annoyed you! Thank you so much for helping me!! And I swear, out of all the things that don't scare me at all in this life, it's so funny that some little ol' hair color has got me so worried! But, listen, I really do appreciate your help. You are very sweet.
... Alrighty, I do understand most of what you've said so far. But, if for some reason, I chicken out and decide not to do it that way the first time, would it be OK to just buy 2 or 3 boxes of a semi-permanent color, and try it that way first? Since this is my first time doing it on my own, and I am just really scared. And maybe with the semi I would just leave the same color on the roots longer, or leave it on the ends longer? Or just buy a whole different color for the roots? Since I am basically going to be coloring it all darker, won't a semi-permanent darken my roots just as well?.... 
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